Fabric guiding and seaming



May 28, 1935. c. F. MACK FABRIC GUIDING AND SEAMING MECHANISM Filed Dec. Q, 1950 2 Sheets-Sheet l 172 z knZo CARL FReoEmcK MACK 192/ Q41. .x7/f0rnqq.

May 28, 1935. c. F. MACK 2,002,861

FABRIC GUIDING AND SE AMING MECHANISM Filed Dec. 9, 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 CARL. FREDERiCK MACK.

J Vito/n (51/ Patented May 28, 1935 UNETED' STATES PATENT OFFICE FABRIC GUIDING AND SEAMING MECHANISM 12 Claims.

The present invention relates to improvements in sewing machines of the cup-feed type and more particularly to an improved mechanism for supporting the fabric to be stitched in proper 5 position with. respect to the stitching head while ill it is being fed through the machine.

This application is a continuation in part of an application filed November 3rd, 1928, Serial No. 316,093 and which has matured into Patent No. 1,745,176, granted January 28, 1930. As was pointed out in said; original application, in the manufacture of knitted goods such as stockings where it is found desirable and necessa y to Stitch a seam Ionnhudinaily from top to bottom thereof, or vice versa, it has been the more or less usual practice to: support and feed the fabric to be stitched through the machine in substantially a vertical plane by means of a pair of cupshaped feed wheels rotating in opposite direc trons. In order to obtain a, seam which is uniform in character, especially as respects neat appearance, it is necessary that it follow closely certain: ofv the longitudinally extending wales 0f the fabric. Ordinarily, however, it is difficult in practice to so guide the fabric that the wales are not crossed during the stitching or overseeining operation with the result that the work is often spoiled in appearance. Another obj ectionable feature of the seaming operation as ordinarily performed is that the seam it produces is uniformly too heavy due primarily to the fact that the needle of the machine passes through the fabric at a point too far removed from the edge thereof, or in other words too many wales are taken up in the stitching or cverseaming operation. Etill another objectionable feature lathe difficulty encountered during the-seams operstion: in. maintaining the fabric inproper position such that the edges thereof are to be overseamed lie constantly in the same horizontal plane, the tendency being for the fabric to drop as it is fed through the mashine with the result that the needle either takes up'lessthan the; desired number of wales or else passes entirely over the edges of the fabric, thus spoiling the seam,

It is among the general objects of this invention to obviate and avoid the foregoing objectionable features and difiiculties of manufacture by the provision of cooperating parts which are operative te'maintain the fabric in, proper stitching positionsas it is being fed through the machine, these' parts being relatively so arranged that the resultant seam is uniformly neat in appearanee and substantially flat.

More specifically one of the objects of the invention is the provision of a horizontally dieposed pressure member arranged for slidable movement in the needle guide, which member cooperates with the stitch finger member to maintain the fabric in proper stitching position.

A still further object is the provision of a pressure member arran ed for sliding movement on the needle guide, together with resilient means tending constantly to urge the pressure member into engagement with the fabric as the latter is fed through the machine by the rotating feed cups.

Still another object of the invention is the provision of a stitch finger of a proportion calculated to produce a line stitch in combination with a. spring pressed pressure member operative to in sure the constant proper positioning of the fabric whereby to secure a seam of minimum depth or thickness.

Other objects, and objects relating to details and economies of operation and manufacture, will appear more fully hereinafter. A preferred form of the invention is described in. the accompanying description and illustrated in the drawings forming a part thereof. In these drawings:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of the needle and looper and their associated parts, including the rotatable cup food and the devices for insuring maintenance of the fabric in proper position;

Figures 2, 3 and 4 are, respectively, top plan, bottom plan and side elevational views of the stitch finger member and needle guide, these parts being shown in operatively assembled relation.

Figure 5 is a perspective view similar to Figure 1. showing a modified form of mechanism for insuring proper positioning of the fabric, the unfurling members being omitted for the sake of clearness;

Figures 6 and 7 are top plan and side elevational views showing the assembled relation of the modified apparatus shown in Figure 5; and

Figure 8 is a view showing the pressure member and the stitch finger assembly in separated relation, these parts being shown in perspective While the drawings show a particular type of cup-feeding overseaming machine, it is to be understood that the invention is adapted for use with other types as well and that the particular machine shown is for illustrative purposes only; The overseaming machine, designated generally by the reference numeral Hi, comprises the main frame H in front of which are located a. pair of cup-shaped feed wheels l2 and I3 arranged 02 simultaneous rotation in opposite directions and in substantially the same horizontal plane. These feed wheels are provided with milled or serrated cooperating surfaces between which the material or fabric to be stitched or seamed is clamped and fed through the machine in sub stantially a vertical plane, the upper edges of the fabric extending a slight distance above the top plane of the feed wheels.

The needle I4 of the stitch forming mechanism is carried by the needle bar Hi, this bar being mounted for horizontal reciprocable movement such that the needle is caused to move back and forth across the common tangential plane and above the upper edges of the feed wheels i2 and I3, with the result that the needle will be caused to penetrate the edges of the fabric extending above the feed wheels. The mechanism for operating the needle bar may be of the usual type and forms no part of the present invention. Cooperating with the needle i4 is a looper I 5 suitably supported by the looper rod l1, this looper rod being arranged for horizontally reciprocable, oscillatory and vertical movements in the man ner and for the purpose Well understood by those skilled in the art, the construction of the locper and mechanism for operating same forming no part of the present invention.

Projecting forwardly from the front face of the machine are a pair of thread guides l8 and is, the needle thread (11. t.) being led through the guide l8 and associated thread controlling devices 2i to the eye of the needle M, while the looper thread (1. t.) is led through the guide I9 and associated thread controlling devices to the eye of the looper IS. The looper I6 is provided with a thread spreading member 22 projecting beneath the looper eye, this member being adapt ed for engagement with the needle thread as it passes from the needle eye to the fabric to insure proper entry of the needle into the loopcr thread loop without interference by its own thread.

Cooperating with the needle is the needle guide member, designated generally by the reference numeral 23, including a main plate 24 adapted to overlie the outer feed wheel l2. This plate 24 is provided with a longitudinally extending groove 25 for receiving the point of the needle I4 as it passes through the fabric and is further provided with a hook-shaped member 26, the curved extremity of which overlies the edge of the feed wheel 12 in accordance with the standard practice. On the side of the needle groove opposite the member 28 is a pressure member 21, this pressure member being arranged for longitudinal movement on the plate 24 toward the fabric as the latter passes between the feed wheels I2 and I3. A spring wire 28, having one end thereof fixed to the plate 24, as at 29, is arranged with its opposite end engaging the outer end of the pressure member 21 whereby to provide an effective means for constantly urging the same inwardly toward the fabric. An elongated slot 39 is provided in the pressure member and a screw 31 projects therethrough and into the body of the plate 24, this slot and screw cooperating to prevent either lateral or vertical displacement of the pressure member relative to its supporting plate 24. The inner end of the pressure member is provided with a lateral extension 32 constituting the fabric engaging edge of the pressure member, the latter extremity of this extension being slightly curved in a direction away from the vertical plane of the path of movement of the fabric through the machine. While in the pres ent instance the plate 24 is shown secured in position by means of the screw 33, it is to be understood that it may be otherwise supported in operative relation with the feed wheel i2 depending altogether upon the particular type of support employed for the feed wheel.

Operatively associated with the inner feed wheel l3 and cooperating with the needle guide 23 is a stitch finger supporting member 34 suitably positioned adjacent the upper edge of the feed wheel. Supported upon this member, by means of the screws 35, is the stitch finger plate 36 terminating in the stitch finger proper 31 of substantially needle-like form beneath which the needle M reciprocates. This stitch finger 31 is of such fine proportion that it is of material assistance in the production of a seam of minimum thickness or depth.

As most clearly appears in Figures 3 and 4, the supporting member 34 is flattened at its outer end for receiving the stitch finger plate 36 and is provided with an integral lug or projection 38 extending laterally over the edge of the feed wheel I 3. The stitch finger plate is of substantially fiat formation throughout, the outer edge thereof being provided with an integrally formed car 39. The lug 38 on the supporting member 34 and the ear 39 on the stitch finger plate are arranged in superimposed relation with the lug 3B lying in the horizontal plane of the pressure member 21, such that the opposed edges of pressure member and lug are normally in contacting engagement. The ear 39 which overlies the lug 38 has its forward edge projecting to a slight extent over and beyond the meeting edges of the pressure member 21 and the lug 38, or, in other words, across the vertical plane of the path of movement of the fabric or material to be stitched.

As has already been stated it is essential in the production of a neat-appearing seam that the seam follow closely and accurately the longitudinally extending wale of the fabric. And in order to insure a, seam of minimum thickness it is equally essential to take up as few wales as possible in the seaming operation, otherwise the seam will be too heavy. These desirable conditions are attained to considerable extent by virtue of the particular coaction and cooperation which is had between the spring pressed pressure member 21 and the lug 38 against which it abuts. The fabric to be seamed is fed through the machine in a substantially vertical plane with the upper edge thereof touching the under surface of the ear 39 of the stitch finger plate 36. This position of the fabric as it passes between the feed wheels is maintained by reason of the fact that the proximate edges of the member 21 and the lug 38 engage opposite sides of the fabric, the member 21 being constantly urged into firm engagement with the fabric by the action of the spring 28. The fabric-engaging edge of the lug 3B is curved to form with the curved fabric-engaging edge of the pressure member a flared opening 40 to permit smooth and uninterrupted entry of the fabric therebetween. The fabric, being thus fed between the feed wheels with the edges of the member 21 and lug 38 firmly engaging opposite surfaces thereof at all times, will be effectually prevented from dropping down and the needle M will as a result pass always between the same wales of the material. The seam will thus be perfectly straight and will be formed without any crossed wales. Further, due to the action of the spring-pressed pressure member 21 which constantly engages the fabric irrespective LII) Lil)

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aooaecr otvariltions inthiclmess thereof and so maintains the fabric in proper position at all times, it is e to feedthe fabric through the machine so that apprcmhnately only one, one. and one-half or two wales in addition to each of the salvaged edges of the fabric are taken up in forming the seam,

In Figures 5 to 8 inclusive are shown modified forms of the pressure member and the stitch finger supporting member, In these figures the pressure member is indicated generally by the reference numeral it being observed that as in" the arrangement shown in Figures 1 to 4 this pressure member 58 is adapted for longitudinal movement on the plate 24 toward the fabric as the latter passes between the feed wheels [2 and I5. A spring wire 5| or any other suitable means is provided for constantly urging the pressure member 50 inwardly toward the fabric. An elongated slot 52 is provided in the horizontally disposed body portion of the pressure member 50 through which a. screw 53 is projected into the body of the supporting plate 24, this slot and screw cooperating to prevent either lateral or vertical displacement of the pressure member 58 relative to its supporting plate 24. Instead of the lateral extension 32 provided at the inner end of the pressure member 2'! (see Figures 1 to 4), in this modified form of pressure member the inner end thereof is provided with a depending substantially flat lug or car 54.

This lug or ear extends substantially at right angles and is offset laterally with respect to the horizontally disposed portion of the pressure member 50 such that when the latter is operatively positioned upon its supporting plate 24 the rear edge of the lug is disposed somewhat in advance of the vertical plane of movement of the needle ll. As appears most clearly in Figure 8 the lug or car 54 is provided in the forward portion of its upper edge with a shoulder or abutment 56, the purpose of which will be apparent immediately hereinafter,

Operatively associated with the feed wheel [3 for cooperation with the pressure member 58 is a stitch finger supporting member 51. This stitch finger supporting member differs from that shown in Figures 1 to 4 inclusive in that it is provided with an integrally formed lug or ear 58 extending substantially at right angles to the plane of the flat surface 59 upon which is secured the stitch finger plate 35. As appears most clearly in Figure 6 this lug or ear 58 is so formed with respect to its supporting body that the rear edge 80 thereof is disposed somewhat in advance of the vertical plane of movement of the needle I4. Integrally formed upon the upper edge of this lug or car 58 for projection across the vertical plane of the path of movement of the fabric through the machine is an extension 5|, this extension being adapted for cooperation with the shoulder 56 provided in the depending lug of the pressure member to insure at all times proper registry or alignment between the pressure member 55 and its associated stitch finger supporting member 51. It will be observed that in both the pressure member 50 and the stitch finger supporting member 51 the upper edges of the lugs 54 and 58 are respectively extended rearwardly to provide a pair of opposed extensions 62 and 63 which are normally maintained in contacting engagement when the parts are assembled as shown in Figures 5 to '7 inclusive. It will be observed that these rearward extensions 5% and 63 are disposed in the horizontal plane of the horizontally extending portion of the pressure-V member 50. It will aho be noted that the rear end of the extension 63 terminates just short of the needle groove 54 formed in the arcuated portion member 51 and that the stitch finger 31 is vertically spaced above the arcuately shaped extremity of said member 51 a distance substantially equal to the depth of the extension 63.

When the spring-pressed pressure member 50 and the stitch finger supporting member 51 are respectively mounted in the operative relation shown in the figures, it will be observed that the logs or ears 5-! and 58 thereof are opposed toleech other and rmpectively engage opposite sides of the fabric being fed through the machine, the lug 54 being constantly urged into firm engagement with one side of this fabric by the action of the spring 5|. The stitch finger plate which is employed in conjunction with the modified form of supporting member therefor is similar in all respects to that illustrated in Figures 1 to 4 inclusive, it being understood that the car 39 thereof extends across the vertical plane of the path of movement of the fabric or material to be stitched as does the guide extension 6%.

If desired, and in some instances it is preferable to do so, the forward edges of the lugs 01' cars 54 and 58 may be oppositely curved to provide a flared opening for facilitating the insertion therebetwecn of the fabric to be seamed. The fabric, being drawn through the machine and across the path of movement of the needle through the action of the feed wheels l2 and I3, is maintained at all times in proper seaming position by virtue of the fact that the lugs 54 and 58 firmly engage opposite sides thereof, the areas or zones of engagement being such as to eilectually preclude any tendency for the fabric to drop below its proper position.

Referring now to Figure i, it will be seen that there has been provided a fabric guiding and unfurling device, indicated generally as 4 I, which device cooperates with either form of the hereinbefore described pressure members and their associated parts in properly feeding and maintaining the fabric in stitching position. This device comprises essentially a suitably supported central bar 42 upon opposite sides of which are pivotally supported, as at 43, a pair of uncurling plates or Wings 44. A spring 45 is disposed between the upper ends of the plates 44, the action of this spring being such as to resiliently press the lower ends of the plates into engagement with the opposite sides of the fabric. Any suitable mcans may be employed for regulating the compressive force of the spring, and thumb-nuts 45 threaded upon a suitably mounted screw (not shown) and engaging opposite faces of the plates 44 may be provided for limiting the extent of movement of the lower ends of the plates toward one another. A pin 48, projecting across the plates 44 and through suitable openings therein, serves as a lateral guide for the plates and also acts to limit the extent of upward movement of the fabric between the plates.

It is to be understood, of course, that the spring pressed pressure member and the stitch finger plate which cooperates therewith may be mounted in any suitable manner other than that disclosed herein. Also the fabric guiding and unfiirling device may be mounted in any other suitable manner, it being only essential that the cooperating plates 44 be so disposed with respect to the feed wheels and the stitching mechanism that the fabric to be stitched will be fed into the machine with its upper edge always moving in the same horizontal plane. Other obvious and minor changes may be made from time to time in the details of construction and arrangement of parts without, however, departing from the spirit and principle of the invention herein disclosed and accordingly it is desired that the same be claimed broadly, as well as specifically, as indicated in the appended claims.

What is claimed as new and useful is:

1. In a sewing machine, in combination, means for feeding a vertically arranged fabric through the machine, a horizontal needle arranged for movement back and forth across the vertical plane of said fabric, a stitch finger operatively associated with said needle, a support for said stitch finger, and a guide for said needle, said stitch finger support being provided with a laterally extending lug and said needle guide member being provided with a spring pressed pressure member, said lug and said spring pressed member lying in substantially the same horizontal plane and being adapted to engage opposite sides of the fabric and said stitch finger being extended across the point of contact between said lug and spring-pressed member.

2. In a sewing machine, in combination, a pair of horizontally disposed feed cups adapted to feed a vertically arranged fabric therebetween, and an overseaming mechanism including a substantially horizontally disposed stitch finger plate intersecting the vertical plane of said fabric, a support for said stitch plate including a fabric engaging lug terminating substantially at said plane, and a needle guide member including a longitudinally movable pressure member movable in the plane of said fabric engaging lug for contacting engagement therewith, and means tending constantly to urge said pressure member into engagement with the side of said fabric opposite said fabric engaging lug.

3. In a sewing machine, in combination, a stitch finger plate and a support therefor, said support being provided with a lateral extension underlying and terminating short of the outer edge of said plate for engaging one side of the fabric to be seamed, and a needle guide plate provided with a spring pressed pressure member longitudinally movable thereon into positive engagement with the opposite side of the fabric.

4. In a sewing machine, in combination, a stitch finger plate and an underlying support therefor, said support being provided with a lateral extension terminating short of the outer edge of said plate and arranged to engage one side of the fabric to be seamed, and a needle guide plate provided with a spring pressed pressure member longitudinally movable thereon into positive engagement with the opposite side of the fabric, said lateral extension and said pressure member lying in a horizontal plane above which the upper edge of said fabric slightly projects and the proximate edges thereof being curved to provide a flared opening to permit free and uninterrupted passage of the fabric therebetween.

5. In a sewing machine, in combination, a pair of feed wheels arranged to rotate about vertical axes and adapted to feed a fabric through the seaming mechanism, said seaming mechanism including a. horizontally reciprocable needle and a guide for said needle, and a spring-pressed pressure member having a lug at the free end thereof adapted to be pressed flatwise against one side of said fabric.

6. In a sewing machine, in combination, means for feeding a fabric through the machine in a substantially vertical plane, and an overseaming mechanism, said mechanism including a horizontally reciprocable needle, a stitch finger project ing across and above the line of movement of said needle, a substantially fiat-surfaced lug operatively associated with and extending below the horizontal plane of said stitch finger, a guide for said needle, and a spring pressed pressure member operatively associated with said guide, said pressure member being provided at its fabric engaging end with a substantially fiat-surfaced lug, the fiat surfaces of said lugs being adapted to engage opposite sides of said fabric below the horizontal plane of movementof said needle.

7. In a sewing machine, in combination, means for feeding a vertically arranged fabric through the machine, a, horizontal needle arranged for reciprocal movement across the plane of said fabric, a stitch finger operatively associated with said needle, 2. support for said finger and a guide for said needle, 2. spring pressed pressure member operatively associated with said guide, and a pair of lugs having enlarged substantially fiat surfaces respectively provided at the opposed edges of said pressure member and stitch finger support, the opposed surfaces of said lugs being designed to engage opposite sides of said fabric through a zone extending a substantial distance below the horizontal plane of said stitch finger.

8. In a sewing machine, in combination, a pair of horizontally arranged feed cups adapted to feed a vertically disposed fabric therebetween, and an overseaming mechanism including a substantially horizontally disposed stitch finger plate intersecting the plane of said fabric, a support for said plate including a fabric engaging lug depending below the plane of said plate and having an enlarged fabric engaging surface substantially paralleling said fabric plane, and a spring pressed pressure member also including, at the free end thereof, a fabric engaging lug having an enlarged surface for engaging the side of the fabric opposite that which is engaged by said first mentioned lug.

9. In a sewing machine, in combination with a needle guide plate of a pressure member arranged for movement on said plate, means tending constantly to urge said member toward one side of the fabric to be seamed, and means formed integrally on said member for engaging said side of the fabric over an area extending a substantial distance below the plane of the upper surface of said guide plate.

10. In a sewing machine, in combination, a stitch finger plate and a support therefor, said support being provided with a fabric engaging lug extending substantially at right angles to the plane of said stitch finger plate and a spring pressed pressure member movable towards said lug, said pressure member being provided at its free end with an enlarged substantially flat surface arranged at right angles to said plane and adapted to coact with said first mentioned lug to maintain a fabric to be seamed therebetween.

11. In a sewing machine, in combination, means for feeding a vertically arranged fabric through the machine, a pair of horizontally disposed members arranged on opposite sides of the fabric, said members being respectively provided at the opposed edges thereof with lugs having substantially fiat surfaces extending below the horizontal plane of the upper edge of said fabric, one of said members being stationary and the other relatively movable with respect thereto, and resilient means tending to constantly urge said movable member towards said stationary member whereby to effect engagement of said lugs with opposite sides of the fabric.

12. In a sewing machine, in combination, means for feeding a vertically arranged fabric through the machine, a pair of horizontally disposed members arranged on opposite sides of the fabric, said members being respectively provided at the opposed edges thereof with lugs having substantially flat surfaces extending below the horizontal plane of the upper edge of said fabric, one of said members being stationary and the other relatively movable with respect thereto, resilient means tending to constantly urge said movable member towards said stationary member whereby to effect engagement of said lugs with opposite sides of the fabric, and a stitch finger piate superimposed upon said stationary member and provided with a portion extending across the vertical plane of said fabric, said overlying portion of the stitch finger being adapted to limit the upward movement of the fabric as the latter is fed through the machine.

CARL FREDERICK MACK. 

